The church that falls again will rise again: A Parish Chronicle by Halldór Laxness

This is the story of a church, one that exists whether it is standing or not. Standing high above the Mosfellsdalur Valley in southwest Iceland, not far from the nation’s capital, Mosfell Church has,  at the time of the telling of the storymid-twentieth century—been recently rebuilt, but it holds a history of rising and falling that reaches back a thousand years. Somewhere along the way it became associated with what parishioners believed were the bones of 10th century poet and national hero, Egill Skallagrímsson. However, the self-named inkman who is committing this account to paper has a more specific focus: he wants to put right a report of the events leading up to the last time the building was destroyed, and resolve the questions that lingered in the wake of that event:

Here, the story will be told of how the church was dismantled and razed to the ground for the third time in the latter part of the 19th century. It will be shown how powerful exponents worked together to destroy this church ever since the Danish king ordered its removal in 1774, although one hundred and twenty years passed before that order was implemented. For almost four generations, consequential parties laid their hands to that plow, such as the government in Denmark, the Icelandic Alþingi time and again, the church authorities one after another, bishops and deans as well as lesser parish authorities; finally, local farmers and honest housewives and robust men belonging to this parish, until no one remained to defend this church but a certain aged farmer at Hrísbrú named Ólafur Magnússon, and an indigent girl, a maid of the priest at Mosfell, named Guðrún Jónsdóttir.

In his introduction to A Parish Chronicle, Salvatore Scibona describes the circumstances surrounding Nobel Prize winning Icelandic writer Halldór Laxness’ decision to begin to work on this novella while vacationing in Rome in 1969. In spite of all the successes and accolades he had received by that time, he still felt like a failure because he felt had not yet gained the international readership he longed for and, at the age of sixty-seven, he may have assumed he was closing in on the end of his productive life. Having already lived two decades longer than his own father, he could not have imagined that he still had twenty-eight years and six more novels ahead of him. But he did, and the first would be this spirited tale, originally drafted six years earlier. First published in Icelandic in 1970,  it has finally been made available for English language readers in Philip Roughton’s lively translation.

With its folksy tone and wry humour, this tale begins as the story of a parish and the social rather than religious role of the church in the everyday lives and politics of a rural community, but expands to offer a colourful sketch of the impact of increasing modernization on a nation with a long and deeply rooted culture and history. It attempts to adopt a documentary approach, but the events are often exceptional and the characters are eccentric, larger-than-life heroes and heroines of a homespun saga in which Icelandic poets are quoted more than any Bible passage is, even if a church (or its emptied yet still consecrated grounds) stands at its centre. Some of these folk even had real-life counterparts with the same names living in the Mosfellsdalur region. To be on the safe side though, Laxness included a note to the first Icelandic edition that read: “References to named individuals writings documents places times and events do not serve a historical purpose in this text.”

When it appears that the long overdue order to consolidate two parishes into one and construct a new church, was finally going to be implemented, old Ólafur of Hrísbrú, the crusty farmer and sheep herder, sharpens the blade of his scythe and, accompanied by one of his sons, arrives at the church and threatens to lead a revolt. But, in the absence of locals willing to take up the cause with the same steely vigour, a petition is launched instead. In the end, the only other person willing stand by his side, at least in writing, is the maid,  Guðrún Jónsdóttir, or, as she is known Big Gunna. Their letter fails to hit its mark and the church is taken down and carted away.

For the inkman who is doing his best to faithfully record the events that occurred before his own birth, Big Gunna becomes an important source of information. His interviews with her when she is an old woman are worked into his narrative. Never inclined to take a husband or to accept money for her labour, she relied on the support of the community to carry her through the long years following the demise of the church and the end of her job there. But she is not a charity case. Delightfully plain-spoken, with her own commendable value system, she describes how she traveled around the region offering her services for almost any work that needed doing—the tougher and dirtier the better.

Then in the latter part of the book, a third key character enters the scene, a young runaway who is, against all odds, taken into the home of old Ólafur and unofficially adopted. This young lad turns out to have an uncanny sense of a good deal, an inexhaustible love of automobiles, and boundless generosity. In his own way, he carries the folks of the Mosfellsdalur Valley into a new era in style.

This book is my first encounter with Halldór Laxness and, I am inclined to think it is as good as any place to start as any. Especially with the excellent introduction (reproduced here at LitHub) to the varied and shifting nature of the Icelandic master’s oeuvre.  Known for his ability to be very funny, even in his longer, bleaker novels, the narrative tone of A Parish Chronicle rests on an irresistible sly, understated humour that runs throughout. This passage, for example, describing the typical encounter travellers would have as they passed by Hrísbrú where Ólafur and one or more of his sons invariably could be found standing outside their buildings, captures the centrality of sheep to the rural consciousness:

The folk at Hrísbrú were rather pleasant of manner apart from old Ólafur when he was wrangling with the priest, but showed no particular interest in dragging people out of the mud bordering the walkway and inviting them inside. They asked for news of sheep from all over the country, because life in Iceland was, as it still is today, all about sheep. For example, when talking about the weather, it was only from the perspective of how it suited the sheep. Good weather was the weather that was good for sheep. A good year was one in which enough grass grew for the sheep. A beautiful landscape in Iceland is one in which there’s good pasturage for sheep. People’s livelihoods and outlooks on life were determined by that creature. The Hrísbrú folk were kept informed by travelers of the circumstances of sheep all over the country, and for their part, told stories about the welfare of sheep in the Mosfell district. They remembered exactly what the weather had been like for the sheep year by year for thirty years back. Those people never wore coats, but their woolen cardigans and sweaters stood up to water and wind like the fleece of an Icelandic sheep. All homemade and in the sheeps’ natural colors, mainly russet.

The world Laxness paints is, for all its quirkiness, one shaped by an abiding affection for the land and its people, his land and his people. This is, after all, the area in which he grew up and the inkman dipping his pen into the ink bottle, is a stand-in for himself. There may not be, as he once insisted, a historical purpose to the details of the account he has presented, but it is a thoroughly entertaining story.

A Parish Chronicle by Halldór Laxness is translated from the Icelandic by Philip Roughton with an Introduction by Salvatore Scibona and published by Archipelago Books.

Here at the end of the world: The Sorrow of Angels by Jón Kalman Stefánsson

The boy sticks his head all the way out and his black hair whitens, the ground lies everywhere beneath a thick layer of the sorrow of angels, no grazing either in pasture or on beach, all the livestock kept inside and the farmers counting every hay-blade going into them, in some places little remaining but leavings  and the animals bleat and low for a better life, but the clouds are thick and no sound is carried to Heaven.

It is already April in this Icelandic village and there is no sign of anything resembling spring. The snow continues to fall and the winds blow cold. It has now been about three weeks since the unnamed protagonist at the centre of Jón Kalman Stefánsson’s Trilogy of the Boy made his way back to the small community following the tragic death of his best friend on a fishing boat, and he is now settling into a life he never imagined possible, surrounded by new friends—a somewhat eccentric family of sorts—with books to read and his first stirrings of real, if perhaps ill-advised, romantic attraction to the daughter of a wealthy local merchant. But this peaceful interlude will not last long.

The Sorrow of Angels, the second volume of the trilogy, can certainly be read as a stand-alone work, but Stefánsson does not waste time filling in many details to flesh out the events and characters, present or past, as he picks up the boy’s story, so starting with Heaven and Hell would not hurt. Both are great. Intense and thoughtful at once, if that’s possible. The first part of Sorrow is evenly paced, continuing with the same rhythm that marked the second part of Heaven and Hell, as we come to know more about the people who have taken the boy in—the strong-willed, mysterious Geirþrúður, her housekeeper Helga, and the blind old sea captain Kolbeinn—and other local figures. For an orphan tossed from farm to farm who, at nineteen, has already spent three winters out with a fishing crew, having a room of his own, surrounded by people who share and actively encourage his love of reading, is more than he could have ever dreamed of. Yet, when the postman Jens arrives from his latest delivery trip half dead, only to have his superior insist that he head right back out on an unfamiliar route through the endless winter’s storms, the boy is “volunteered” to accompany him.  For the postman, with an aging father and a developmentally disabled sister to support, the promised payout of this journey is too much to pass up. But for his friends, the idea of him taking on this mission alone in such extreme weather is a serious concern, so they decide that he will not go alone.

Once the two men are on their way, the mood of the narrative shifts, acquiring a sweep that echoes the vast landscape to be traversed. It very quickly becomes clear that Jens and the boy are temperamentally mismatched for the challenges that lie ahead. The older man prefers the silence of his own thoughts, while the younger man is inclined to want to fill the long hours with conversation, recitation of verse, and even song. Their trip, through blinding, brutal storms, over an unfamiliar terrain with unseen dangers and few places to take refuge, is long and they will be forced to rely on one another more than once just to survive. Through long, unbroken passages, Stefansson’s penchant for prose that is lyrical and melodic, heightens the inhuman conditions his characters face here at the end of the world—both those who live in this harsh region year round and those forced to pass through. He is a master at evoking ice, freezing skin, and the snow storms can distort time and space, carrying with it the real threat of ghosts that seem to emerge out of the whiteness to lead the lost to their deaths.

He stops, ceases to struggle onwards and stands still, forces himself to stand, though the temptation simply to sink is so alluring; he stands still and shuts his eyes. Now I shut my eyes, and if I’m meant to live, he thinks optimistically, then Jens will be standing before me when I reopen them. He stands with his legs spread wide so as not to be blown over and it’s incredibly good to have his eyes shut, as if he’s made it to unexpected shelter. The wind is certainly still blowing coldly against him yet it’s no longer of any concern to him. It has grown distant, it’s no longer threatening. It would be too easy, perilously easy to sleep like this; open your eyes, he commands himself, and that’s what he does. Opens his eyes to see a woman standing before him, just an arm’s length between them. Rather tall, erect, her head bare and her long, dark hair blowing over and from her stern face, her dead eyes penetrate his skull and drill themselves into the centre of his mind. Then she turns and walks away, against the wind, and he follows.

However, as the boy and the postman will discover, sometimes the dead have other intentions. Before their journey is over, they find themselves joined by a third man, and charged with the special delivery of a most unusual item through the most treacherous terrain they have yet encountered.

Like Heaven and Hell before it, The Sorrow of Angels combines the elements of an epic adventure with a strong musical sensibility. Stefánsson’s language is poetic, his characters are pushed to their limits—physically and emotionally—and the remoteness and ruggedness of the remote reaches of northern Iceland a century ago is portrayed with relentless intensity. A thoroughly enjoyable read. However, as the middle volume of a trilogy,  this book ends on a cliffhanger, it must be said, and it will be another six months or so before the final volume is released in North America in the spring of 2026. (It has been out for a decade in the UK, but it is always nice to have a matching set.)

The Sorrow of Angels by Jón Kalman Stefánsson is translated from the Icelandic by Philip Roughton and published by Biblioasis.

“How many years fit into one day?” Heaven and Hell by Jón Kalman Stefánsson

The sea on one side, steep and lofty mountains on the other; that’s our whole story in fact. The authorities, merchants, might rule our destitute days, but the mountains and the sea rule life, they are our fate, or that’s the way we think sometimes, and that’s the way you certainly would feel if you had awakened and slept for decades beneath the same mountains, if your chest had risen and fallen with the breath of the sea on our cockleshells. There is almost nothing as beautiful as the sea on good days, or clear nights, when it dreams and the gleam of the moon is its dream. But the sea is not a bit beautiful, and we hate it more than anything else when the waves rise dozens of metres above the boat, when the sea breaks over it and drowns us like wretched whelps. Then all are equal. Rotten bastards and good men, giants and laggards, the happy and the sad.

This theatrical landscape, evoked with such poetic intensity, sets the stage for an epic work that combines old-fashioned drama with contemporary literary sensibility, a tale of loss and bravery that makes for a truly glorious read. Somewhat disorienting in the early pages of the first volume of Jón Kalman Stefánsson’s Trilogy About the Boy, it’s not clear when the swirling narrative takes place, and where the protagonist—known simply as “the boy”—and his friend Bárður are in this snow-covered Icelandic terrain. Somewhere between heaven and hell, no doubt.

Heaven and Hell is a tale about the devastating power of the elements and the redeeming power of literature. It has an intentionally timeless, epic quality that is irresistible, thanks in no small part to an overarching narrative voice,  a first person plural chorus of the dead, that relays this story of the past, unfixed in time but set more than a hundred years earlier, “during the years when we were surely still alive.” An epic voice for an epic adventure. But the distinctive lyrical qualities reflect Stefánsson’s natural inclinations as a writer:

Poetry is very important to me; I started my writing career as a poet, published 3 books of poetry before I turned over to prose. In a way, I think that I use, though subconsciously, the technique and the inner thinking of poetry while writing prose; therefore, poetry lies in the veins of my prose. I think as a poet while writing as a novelist. I also see my novels partly as a piece of music, a symphony, a requiem, a rock or hip-hop song. There lies so much music, both in the language and the novel itself: its structure, style, breath. And the structure is for me just as important as the stories; one can sometimes call it one of the characters.

At the centre of this novel is a nineteen year-old orphan, the boy, whose father drowned when he was six, leaving his family separated. He and his brother were sent to board in different communities, while his mother and young sister would die before they could ever see one another again. But although his parents were poor, with limited education, their love of books and his mother’s letters filled with imagery drawn from science, helped foster in her son literary inclinations that would bloom under the right influence. That came through his friendship with Bárður, a young man several years older who introduced him to the beauty of poetry. When Heaven and Hell opens, the two are on their way back from a brief respite in the Village to the fishing hut where they are spending their third winter as part of a fishing crew. In his pack Bárður is carrying a loaned copy of Paradise Lost—a book that will soon cost him his life. As the crew is readying to take to the sea in the early hours of the following morning, Bárður will quickly slip back to commit a few lines of Milton‘s verse to memory, something to share with his young friend during the long hours ahead, but in his haste he will forget his waterproof. When a vicious storm arises, this mistake proves fatal.

When the boat finally returns to shore, the boy is devastated and cannot bear to stay. The captain’s wife helps him prepare for the long walk back to the Village and he slips away intent to return the borrowed book. He intentionally choses the more challenging inland route, haunted by the pain of his loss. He thinks about poetry and he thinks about death:

He trudges into the valley and Bárður is dead.

Read a poem and froze to death because of it.

Some poems take us places where no words reach, no thought, they take you up to the core itself, life stops for one moment and becomes beautiful, it becomes clear with regret and happiness. Some poems change the day, the night, your life. Some poems make you forget, forget the depression, the hopelessness, you forget your waterproof, the frost comes to you, says, got you, and you’re dead. The one who dies is changed immediately into the past. It doesn’t matter how important a person was, how much kindness and strength of will that person had and how life was inconceivable without him or her: death says, got you, life vanishes in a second and the person is changed into the past. Everything connected to that person becomes a memory you struggle to retain, and it is treachery to forget that.

The journey is difficult and dangerous, and the boy does not know what he will do once his mission is complete, but suicide is an option he contemplates. However, once he is back in the Village, he soon finds himself welcomed into what becomes an ad hoc, somewhat eccentric, family of sorts.

What makes this novel succeed so well, and makes it such an entertaining and invigorating experience tp read, lies in the musicality of the language and the strength of the characterization. On one level, there is the fundamental battle between man and nature—the former so small against the enormity and unpredictability of weather, water, and terrain— unfolding in seemingly endless sentences and long breathless paragraphs, followed by short sharp statements that stand alone. The epic sweep of these passages is reinforced by the otherworldy quality of the narrative voice. On the other level, away from immediate environmental threats, individual human interactions have a different tenor. Focus falls on certain striking features—perhaps body size, eyes, or hair—that set one person apart from another, the kind of cues people use to try to assess others. Dialogue is woven into the text without demarcation, much social motivation remains in the shadows, and distrust can be easily kindled. Life is tough in this remote part of Iceland, and so are the people who live here.

This release of Heaven and Hell has been a long time coming. First published in Icelandic in 2007, Philip Roughton’s English translation appeared in the UK in 2010 (MacLehose Press). Now, in 2025, Biblioasis has released the first two parts of The Trilogy of the Boy for North American readers—The Sorrows of Angels just came out—with the final part due next year. And although the books can be read independently, it doesn’t hurt to start right here with part one of this memorable epic tale in which epic poetry is a driving force, leading to death and reaffirming life.

Heaven and Hell by Jón Kalman Stefánsson is translated from the Icelandic by Philip Roughton and published by Biblioasis.

Passion and plague: Moonstone: The Boy Who Never Was by Sjón

He’d had no inkling that when the pestilence took hold Reykjavik would empty and convey the impression that nothing was happening at all; that the town would become an abandoned set that he, Máni Steinn, could envisage as the backdrop for whatever sensational plot he cared to devise, or more accurately, for the kind of sinister events that in a film would be staged in this sort of village of the damned–for those days the real stories are being acted out behind closed doors. And they are darker than a youthful mind can imagine.

moonstoneMoonstone: The Boy Who Never Was, Icelandic writer Sjón’s fourth novel to be released in translation, is set in Reykjavik in late 1918. This is fortuitous timing. A number of critical events converge over the course of a few months: the volcano Katla erupts in a dazzling display of fire and ash, the First World War comes to an end, and the small Nordic country achieves sovereignty. But the most devastating impact arrives in the form of the plague that is presently sweeping the globe–the Spanish flu.

At the centre of the tale is sixteen year-old Máni Steinn, an orphan who lives with an old woman who is, as far as he knows, the sister of his great-grandmother. He is an independent spirit. He wanders around town, services “gentlemen” for money, and spends hours in the cinema. For a queer boy with no family history, illiterate, and alienated from his peers, silent films offer an opportunity to lose himself in fantasy, intrigue, and drama. A theatrical imagination dominates his dreams, at night and during the idle hours of the day.

In general, his encounters with men are dispassionate, hurried and impersonal. But there are a few exceptions, men who show him affection and kindness, like the foreigner who, in a play on his name, christens him Moonstone. And then there is Sóla G–, a young woman from a prominent family, who is known for ridingmusidora through town on her red Indian motorcycle. She is, for Máni, an embodiment of Musidora, the French actress who stars in one of his favouritefilms, Louis Feuillade’s crime serial, The Vampires. He worships her and, fortunately for him, she secretly knows and understands the kind of boy he is.

The Spanish flu will alter everything. Despite warnings from Copenhagen, Iceland is not prepared for the speed with which the coming epidemic will spread or the toll it will take on the people and resources of Reykjavik. Once it hits the shore though, it is all that anyone can talk about. Our protagonist however, absorbs the news with a deeply romantic response:

He has a butterfly in his stomach, similar to those he experiences when he picks up a gentleman, only this time it is larger, its wingspan greater, its colour as black as the velvet ribbons on a hearse.

An uncontrollable force has been unleashed in the country; something historic is taking place in Reykjavík at the same time as it is happening in the outside world.

The silver screen has torn and a draft is blowing between the worlds.

Very rapidly, Reykjavik begins to resemble a ghost town. The cinema still draws those seeking comfort, community, and warmth until the last available musician of any description collapses and the films, now unbearably silent, cease. But by this point Máni himself has fallen ill.

Sjón invites the reader right into his hero’s illness with little warning. The images are brutal, harsh, surreal. From the explosive fiery heat of his fever, through his horrific delusions to the subsequent pain and bleeding, Máni’s cinematic imagination colours the account of his fragmented and distorted days of suffering. He is left drained and delerious:

The boy no longer has need of blood or bone, muscle or gut. He dissolves his body, turning solid into liquid, beginning from within and rinsing it all out, until it gushes out of every orifice he can find. He is a shadow that passes from man to man, and no one is complete until he has cast him.

Upon recovery, Máni is recruited to accompany the doctor and his driver, the enigmatic Sóla G–, on the grim task of calling on the sick, the dying and the dead. Men, women and children fall indiscriminately. Within a few weeks though, the pestilence burns itself out and the survivors pull themselves together and drag themselves back to life and, soon, to the cinema. Over the course of one month, ten thousand citizens have endured the ravages of the illness, and almost every family has been directly touched by loss in some way. Attention now turns to the coming celebration of Iceland’s independence, but Máni will still have one major challenge ahead.

Sjón has a light touch–an ability to spin a tale that unfolds with the spirit of a fable and feels lighter than air. He works in miniature with a sensibility that is poetic, weaving the strands of his tale with a glimmer of magic. But that does not mean his novels fail to explore topics of substance or create characters that live and breathe. The lingering impression is ephemeral, lyrical, haunting.

Moonstone is dedicated to the author’s uncle Bósi, a gay man who died of AIDS in 1993. This novella sheds light on the clandestine and dangerous lives of homosexual men at a time when a country like Iceland, which fancied itself too robust to face threat from influenza, imagined itself to be a place where such aberrant behaviour could not possibly exist. For Máni, the “boy who never was”, it was a desolate place, save for the refuge of cinema. Placing the story in 1918, allusions to the plague that would devastate the gay community in the 1980s and 90s are unavoidable. And that much more powerful.

Moonstone: The Boy Who Never Was is translated by Victoria Cribb and published by Farrar, Straus and Giroux in North America and Sceptre in the UK. Originally published in 2013, the book won the Icelandic Literary Prize.